Redefining Fashion: Material Culture as a tool for transformation.

In September 2016, I found myself on a whirlwind trip to Los Angeles, immersed in the glitz of the fashion world. A fleeting two-hour photo shoot left me questioning the industry’s core values, where the allure of prestige often masked a dissonance between appearance and substance. As a model, I became a bridge between creativity and the public, yet the system’s unyielding focus on image over depth pushed me toward deeper questions.

That journey led me to explore "material culture in ethical fashion", a field that examines how objects influence the identities and values of their creators. My work, inspired by anthropological perspectives, bridges fashion’s aesthetics with its cultural and ecological dimensions. Through this lens, I interrogate how designers and artisans create meaning in their work and how materiality serves as both a medium and a message for transformation.

Material Culture and the Power of Objects

Anthropology has long studied the role of objects in shaping human relationships, behaviors, and identities. Drawing from my research on a family heirloom—a medallion steeped in personal and collective history—I’ve observed how objects act as agents of memory and emotion. This medallion, a symbol of resilience, belonging, and spirituality, connects me to my family’s Spanish heritage while inviting me to reimagine its purpose in my life.

Through touch, observation, and interaction, I discovered that objects are never static. As Bruno Latour posits, they are part of a "cascade of doing and making do," influencing and being influenced by their environments. My medallion, for instance, has transitioned from a religious artifact to a personal talisman, symbolizing the interplay of tradition and reinterpretation. Its materiality—the gold, enamel, and craftsmanship—transforms it into a mediator of relationships, much like fashion objects that weave personal expression with societal values.

Fashion as an Agent of Change

Ethical fashion operates within this dynamic, using materiality to challenge and reframe dominant narratives in the industry. Brands like Marine Serre exemplify this approach, with 90% of their collections derived from recycled materials. This is not merely an ecological commitment but a cultural one: a redefinition of what luxury means and how it can be both inclusive and innovative.

Much like my medallion’s journey through generations, these garments carry histories and possibilities. They bridge the past with a vision for a sustainable future. By embedding ecological practices within the creative process, ethical fashion highlights how objects can resist the throwaway culture that dominates the global market.

Yet, this transformation raises critical questions: Can recycled materials challenge the symbolic value of luxury rooted in exclusivity? How do these practices reshape the relationships between designers, consumers, and the environment?

Objects as Narratives: Materiality in Practice

Objects are never isolated; they exist within networks of relationships. From the miner extracting raw materials to the designer crafting an item and the consumer wearing it, each stage of an object’s lifecycle weaves together stories and interactions.

In fashion, these networks are increasingly visible. Ethical garments narrate stories of labor, sustainability, and cultural heritage. They challenge the traditional boundaries of luxury by emphasizing collective responsibility over individual consumption. Tim Ingold’s work on the materiality of making echoes this idea: objects are not endpoints but processes, shaped by the people and environments around them.

For instance, a recycled dress by Marine Serre doesn’t just represent eco-consciousness; it embodies the labor of deconstruction and reconstruction, turning discarded fabrics into wearable art. This transformation illustrates how fashion can bridge the gap between ecological necessity and cultural expression.

Case Study: Ethical Fashion and Collective Memory

Ethical fashion also serves as a repository of collective memory. Much like the artisans in Mallorca—who preserve traditional crafts like Ikat weaving or Llata braiding to resist the pressures of mass tourism—ethical fashion houses transform materials to honor and reinterpret heritage.

These practices are not just acts of preservation; they are active reinventions. Ethical brands are navigating a delicate balance between respecting the past and innovating for the future. By doing so, they align with Arjun Appadurai’s concept of "the social life of things," where objects gain meaning through their trajectories across time and space.

Toward a More Reflective Industry

Objects are vibrant, active participants in shaping identities and fostering connections. Ethical fashion has the potential to redefine the industry by embracing this perspective, recognizing garments not just as commodities but as carriers of values, histories, and futures.

Yet, the challenges are significant. As ethical fashion gains traction, it risks being co-opted by the same systems of mass production it seeks to challenge. To avoid this, brands must prioritize not only sustainable practices but also transparent narratives that honor the human and material stories behind their creations.

Much like my medallion, which connects me to my family’s history while evolving with my personal journey, ethical fashion can bridge tradition and innovation. It has the power to turn garments into symbols of resilience and transformation, reminding us that true luxury lies in connection, care, and creativity.

By reimagining materiality as a tool for cultural and ecological sustainability, fashion can move beyond superficial trends to become a space of genuine transformation—a space where objects and stories weave a future rooted in responsibility and reinvention.

Written by Sophie Alexandra Monseu

January 2021

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